BESPOKE PROCESS AT BARI & SONS TAILORS
THE TAILORING JOURNEY
Measurements
The experience begins with a visit to our store. Here the customer meets and discusses the requirements with his own master tailor, who will see oversee every step of the process. The tailor’s questions to his client are themselves precisely tailored:
He learns who the client is and what kind of suit he wants and for what occasions, and in which seasons.
The tailor then takes measurements. There are more than twenty measuring points. ranging from the width of the shoulders to the length of the legs. The tailor is trained to see everything: He is there to correct asymmetry, straighten a shoulder, and lengthen a silhouette. He’ll also advise the client about which cut of suit he might prefer. One, two, or three buttons, hand sewn or patch pockets, pointed or notched lapels, button style, lining colour, number of pockets, inside orout….
At every step, the master tailor guides the client with informed suggestions.
Fabric
It’s time to choose the suit’s fabric. We will show and recommend to you some of the latest collections that are currently in trend.
The choice seems infinite. with varied options of materials woven by the great fabric houses of Italy, England, Ireland, or France. The client may have a specific request – for a special event, for example.
In any case, the master tailor will work with him to find exactly the right fabric.
When it comes to fabrics, the discussion will turn, variously, to cashmere, tweed and check. Fabric density is also important. Wool, for example, is categorized by metric values: 110 S, 130 S, etc… The higher the number. the finer the material and the softer the hand. The choice also depends on a client’s lifestyle.
The Cut
After the first meeting, the master tailor begins creating the suit. The trousers are entirely made by a specialised trouser- maker. The master tailor creates the jacket, constantly keeping his client’s morphology in mind, compensating, for example, for uneven shoulders or a rounded back. He sketches the design on cloth, with marks for darts, cut-outs, and specific details. He then cuts the fabric, sewing it to the muslin, taking care to allow extra material for adjustments both at the fitting and over time.
Fitting
Weeks after the first meeting with the master tailor, the client will try on the tone of his jacket. The master tailor will have assembled the jacket by hand,stitching its collar, sleeves, and other details.
During this fitting the tailor can check the
jacket’s balance lines, meaning how the piece aligns with the body. At this point, the client may also try on the trousers, which will have already been cut in the final fabric.
Some areas are basted, or temporarily hemmed, so that they can be adjusted right down to the millimeter after the fitting. All the necessary elements, from collar and shoulders to pockets, lining and interfacing are assembled and discussed for final product.
This is when dozens of details are tended to that will be sewn by hand, lapel, buttonholes and working buttonholes to hand-mounted linings with topstitched edges.
Topstitching, such as the saddle stitch, is the signature of a tailor’s work.
Unique Suit
Each client has his own requirements and sometimes are very specific about cuts, lapel size and pockets with or without flaps. During the fitting, the master tailor proceeds to make the final adjustments. He measures to the millimeter for bending, or he may adjust the length and width of a sleeve depending on how a watch is worn, forexample, or alter pocket placement and size for a client who carries more than one smartphone. This is because creative audacity also lies in unique details a surprising suit lining, a daring choice of button, a slightly off-centre elbow pad…
Nothing is left to chance.
Rapport
Once these anal corrections are made. about three months after the first appointment, the client may take home his idea suit, one created entirely according to his personality, shape, and wishes. In all, his tailor would have devoted several valuable hours of work to its creation. A unique suit often prefigures a unique relationship, because the same tailor will serve his client for subsequent orders, correcting his table of measurements as needed. Over time, he will come to know perfectly his client’s build and preferences.